The United Kingdom has introduced new restrictions on a chemical commonly used in gel nail polishes, raising concerns among beauty businesses and consumers over the safety and cost of manicures.
The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, popularly known as TPO, is used as a photoinitiator to help gel polish cure under ultraviolet light. It also helps improve the product’s durability and colour retention.
The new rules, which apply across England, Wales and Scotland, came into effect on Saturday and prohibit manufacturers from placing new TPO-containing products on the market.
However, nail salons have until February 14, 2027, to use up existing supplies. This means customers could still come across gel products containing TPO until the deadline.
The restriction follows a ban on TPO introduced by the European Union in September 2025. The chemical came under scrutiny after animal studies raised concerns about possible effects on fertility and reproduction.
However, industry representatives have argued that the levels of TPO found in nail products are far below concentrations associated with harmful effects.
Caroline Rainsford, Director of Science at the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, said the EU decision was based on the chemical’s potential hazards under high-exposure conditions.
She said, “This is not how TPO is used in cosmetics. The amount of this ingredient used in nail products is over a thousand times less than the amount which could have any negative effect on fertility.”
Rainsford added that the products are applied directly to the nails, further limiting the possibility of the chemical being absorbed into the body.
TPO-free gel polishes are already available, allowing salons to continue offering gel manicures without the restricted ingredient. However, some alternatives may be more expensive and could require technicians to modify their curing techniques.
Industry observers said the different reactions of replacement photoinitiators to UV light could also lengthen manicure appointments, while higher product costs may eventually be passed on to customers.
Despite the new UK restrictions, TPO-containing nail products remain available in some other countries.
